Strip material for use in defining the fold lines of collars



, L. BIHALY Y STRIP MATERIAL FOR USE IN DEFINING THE FOLD LINES OF COLLARS July 22 1 958 Filqd Dec. 1, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR July 22, 1958 BIHALY 2,844,170 STRIP MATERIAL FOR USE IN DEFINING THE FOLD LINES 0F COLLARS Filed Dec. 1, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. Lajos 81 61,,

BY- I mum 23mm United States PatentO STRIP MATERIAL FOR USE IN DEFINING THE FOLD LINES OF COLLARS Lajos Bihaly, London, England, assignor to Trubenizing Process Corporation, New York, N. Y.

Application December 1, 1955, Serial No. 550,958 Claims priority, application Germany December 15, 1952 12 Claims. (Cl. 139*3855) The present invention relates to an adhesive strip ma terial, and more particularly to a strip material for use 1 in defining the fold lines of collars. I

The present application is a continuation-in-part of the copending application Serial Number 397,848, filed December 14, 1953, now abandoned, and entitled, Strip Material for Use in Defining the Fold 'Lines of Collars.

In the absence of a banding seam,-it is necessary to use other means for defining the fold line of a one-piece collar. Preferably a narrow strip of fabric is interposed between and adhesively secured to two of the plies or layers of which the collar is formed. This narrow strip has to be carefully positioned prior to the fusing together or otherwise adhering to each other of the plies of a multiply collar in order to define the fold line exactly where it is desired.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a fabric strip for defining the fold line of one-piece collars which can be easily secured in the proper position to one of the plies of the collar prior to fusing of the same.

Other objects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from a further reading of the description and of the appended claims.

With the above objects'in view, the present invention mainly consists of a fabric having on at least one face thereof latently adhesive first surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under firstpredetermined conditions, and having on the other face discrete latently adhesive second surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under second predetermined conditions dilferent from said first predetermined conditions so as not to cause activation of said latently adhesive first surface portions during activation of said latently adhesive second surface portions.

The present invention also consists in a strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, comprising, in combination, a woven strip of textile material having two faces and containing a first latently adhesive substance which is exposed at least at one face of the strip material and a second latently adhesive substance which is exposed at the other face of the strip material, the first and second latentlyadhesive substances Patented July 22, 195

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does not cause activation of the first adhesive substance, whereby the strip material may be preliminarily adhered with the other face thereof to a one-piece collar and the like by activation of the second adhesive substance while the first adhesive substance remains in non-adhesive condition, so that the permanent adhesion between the strip material and the one-piece collar and the like may be obtained by activation of the first adhesive substance after the strip material has been preliminarily adhered to the collar in proper position by activation of the second adhesive substance.

According to the present invention, the fabric or strip material which is to be used for determining the fold line of the one-piece collar is provided on at least one face thereof with a first latently adhesive substance which can be activated in a predetermined manner for instance by the application of a solvent, or heat, or of a solvent and heat. By activating this first adhesive substance, the strip is permanently adhered to the adjacent plies of the collar. In addition, the strip is provided on its other face with a second latently adhesive substance, which is preferably distributed on that face in discrete portions. The second latently adhesive substance is adapted to be activated-under conditions which will not activate the first adhesive substance, such as heat at relatively low temperatures for instance 100 to 120 C. Consequently by activating the second latently adhesive substance it is possible to preliminarily adhere one face of the strip material to the adjaeent face of a collar ply, and, after thus having preliminarily adhered the strip in proper position, to activate the first latently adhesive substance and topermanently adhere the strip by means of the same to collar plies adjacent to the strip.

The novel features which are considered as characteristic-for the invention are set forth in particular in the appended claims. to its construction and its method of operation, together with additional objects and advantages thereof, will be best understood from the following description of specific forming at least portions of threads included in the woven embodiments when read in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic view of a fabric according to the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional view of a collar blank and strip assembly in position for "the preliminary adhering of the strip to a collar ply; and

Fig. 3 'is' a cross-sectional view of a collar blank and strip asscmbly'after permanently adhering adjacent collar plies to the strip.

"Referring nowto the drawings and more particularly to Fig. 1,"the fabric or strip material is shown to consist of a woven tape 1 preferably having. a width of about 1 of an inch or slightly less and havingat one longitudinal edge a zone 2 having a width of about of an mch. Zone 2 has a warp 3 composed of fine-cotton yarns and does not containany'adhesive materialf" The remamingpart-4 of the tape which has a width of about inch orslightly-less contains warp threads of three different kinds: cotton yarns 5 which are heavier than those in zone 2; yarns 6 including the first latently adhesive substance, such as cellulose acetate yarnsyand yarns 7 containingthe second latently adhesive substance which is adapted to be activated under conditions which will not activatethe first adhesive substance. Yarns 7 may for instance be compound threads comprising-cotton" yarn coated with polyethylene. Two cotton yarns 5 and one cellulose acetate yarn 6 are arranged-alternate ly across the whole width of zone 4- of thetape, but there are only five of the polyethylene-containing threads 7in the illustrated embodiment. I Polyethylene-containmg threads. 7 are spaced 'at equal intervals across the width of zone 4. The weft 8 is cotton and the weave The invention itself, however, both as is such that the greater part of the length of the cellulose acetate yarns 6 is exposed on one face of the tape, while the greater part of the length of the polyethylene-containing threads 7 is exposed on the opposite face of the tape. Some or all of the cotton yarns may be replaced by yarns of, for instance, spun viscose rayon.

The first latently adhesive substance or surface portion which is not activated under the conditions which cause adhesion of the second latently adhesive substance, has been described above as cellulose acetate yarns 6. 'However, a great variety of adhesive substances, in the form of threads or coatings, may be used for this purpose and are kown to those skilled in the art. Preferably, the first adhesive substance, if of the woven type, in order to be activated should require wetting with a suitable solvent such as acetone and pressing for about twenty-five seconds at a pressure of about 25 to 30 p. s. i. at about 120 C. A first latently adhesive substance of the coated type will for instance require fusing pressures of 25 to 35 p. s. i., temperatures of about 150 C. and times of about twenty-five to forty-five seconds. The conditions for activating the first adhesive substance may vary considerably. However, these conditions must always be considerably more severe than the conditions required for activation of the second latently adhesive substance or surface portion, which is used to preliminarily adhere one face of the strip to the adjacent face of a collar layer.

The second latently adhesive substance which is described above as yarns 7 comprising cotton yarn coated with polyethylene, may for instance also consist of monofilaments of polyethylene 10 thousandths of an inch diameter, flowing at 105 C., actual fusing temperature 120 C. In this case, a fusing pressure of about 20 p. s. i. and a pressing time of between six and eight seconds would be required. Yarns 7 may also consist of multifilaments of viscose of a total denier of 200 coated with polyethylene to a final daimeter of 12-15 thousandths of an inch. These too require a fusing pressure of about 20 p. s. i. and a pressing time of six to eight seconds and a temperature of about 120 C. Yarns 7 may also be multifilaments of nylon 66 of a total denier of 200 coated with a methyl-methoxylated polyamide, such as are commercially available in England under the trade name Calaton C. A. and having a total final diamter of between 12 and 15 thousandths of an inch. In this case moistening with dilute alcohol and subsequent pressing at about p. s. i., a temperature of about 150 C. for about six to eight seconds is required. The yarns 7 may also for instance be cotton yarns of count (English), coated wth a copolymer of vinyl chloride and vinyl acetate mixed with a polymer of vinyl acetate and so blended as to produce a softening point of about 100 C. This will require heating to 100 C., a pressure of about 20 p. s. i. and' a time of about ten seconds for activation.

The foregoing substances of which the latently adhesive first surface portions and the latently adhesive second surface portions may consist are given as illustrative only, the present invention however not being limited to any of the specific substances described. It is however important in accordance with the present invention that the first latently adhesive surface portions consist of a substance which will not be activated under the conditions which will already cause activation of the substance of which the second latently adhesive surface portions consist. as a materal for the first adhesive surface portions) is not activated by the heat required for activating polyethylene (used as a material for the second adhesive surface portions).

It is thus apparent that the strip material of the present invention (which is preferably in the form of a tape, but may be a strip cut from a wider fabric) contains or carries two diflerent substances, each capable of effecting adhesion between the strip material and a ply For instance cellulose acetate (used' of the collar, these adhesive substances being such that one of them can be caused to effect such adhesion by a treatment which leaves the other substance in non-adhesive condition but capable of being brought into adhesive condition by further treatment at a later stage.

The second adhesive substance is used to secure the strip in the required position by adhering it to the face of one of the plies between which it will eventually lie, at some stage before this face is brought against the other ply to which the strip is to be adhered. The first adhesive substance is used only after the two plies or layers have been brought into their final relative positions, so that the strip can then be adhered permanently to both the adjacent plies. In the case of fused collars the first adhesive substance in the strip material is preferably identical withthat employed in the interlining, so that the operation of fusing the plies together serves also to effect the final securing of the strip material.

The strip material of the present invention preferably comprises two longitudinally extending zones of different characteristics adapted respectively to increase and to decrease the stiffness of the parts of a fused collar in which they lie. The broader of the two zones 4 contains or carries both the adhesive substances and eventually adheres to both the collar plies between which it lies, while the second and narrower zone 2 contains no adhesive and either does not adhere to either of the adjacent plies, or adheres to only one of those plies and is of such flimsy construction that it has a net softening effect.

Referring now to Fig. 2 there are shown superimposed upon each other a back layer 10, a face layer 11, a

lining 12 and the strip 13 comprising a broader zone 4 and a narrower zone 2. Strip 13 has been diagrammatically illustrated in detail in Fig. 1. Strip 13 after being placed in the desired position on the lining 12 is preliminarily adhered to lining 12 by activating the second latently adhesive substance, indicated in the illustrated embodiment as polyethylene-containing threads 7.

Permanent adhesion between the various collar layers and the strip 13 is achieved after folding over back layer 10, so that the same now covers the previously free surface of strip 13 on which the first latently adhesive substance is provided in the form of cellulose acetate yarns 6. Both faces of lining 12 are also provided with a latently adhesive substance 14 which may or may not be identical with the latently adhesive substance 6. By activating the latently adhesive substances 6 and 14, the various layers of the collar and strip 13 are now permanently adhered or fused together. The thus-obtained final position of the various layers of the collar is illustrated in Fig. 3 which shows back layer 10 superimposed uponlining 12 and fold line determining strip 13, and lining 12 superimposed upon face layer 11. Permanent adherence of the layers is obtained at the areas covered by the adhesive substances 6 and 14.

When a strip according to the present invention is employed in the production of fused one-piece collars, the procedure is preferably as follows. The plies are assembled in superimposed relationship with the interlining ply (containing for instance strands of cellulose acetate for effecting adhesion between the plies) uppermost and are secured together by stitching around the major part of the contour of the collar. Either before or after this running operation, that face of the fold line determining strip on which the polyethylene-containing strands are exposed is placed in contact with the interlining ply, with the narrow marginal zone of the strip extending along the desired fold line and the adhesivecontaining zone of the strip in contact with the portion of the interlining which is to lie in the band of the collar. The strip is secured in this position by the application of pressure and a degree of heat sufficient to cause the polyethylene to fuse, or to soften sufficiently to become adhesive. The cellulose acetate and other constituents are left unaffected by this operation. The collar is then turned, bringing the tape between the lining and backing plies, the stitching is completed, and the usual fusing operation is eifected in the ordinary way by applying solvents, heat and pressure. As a result of this operation the part of the tape in the band portion of the collar is caused to adhere on one side to the interlining by the action of the cellulose acetate strands in the latter and to adhere on the other side to the backing ply by the action of the cellulose acetate strands contained in the tape itself. Along the fold line, the relatively weak marginal zone of the tape adheres on one side to the interlining butthere is no adhesion of the backing ply in this zone.

It will be understood that each of the elements described above, or two or more together, may also find a useful application in other types of adhesive strip mate- I rial differing from the types described above.

While the invention has been illustrated and described as embodied in a strip material for use in defining the fold lines of collars, it is not intended to be limited to the details shown, since various modifications and structural changes may be made without departing in any way from the spirit of the present invention.

Without further analysis, the foregoing will so fully reveal the gist of the present invention that others can by applying current knowledge readily adapt it for various applications without omitting features that, from the standpoint of prior art, fairly constitute essential characteristics of the generic or specific aspects of this invention and, therefore, such adaptations should and are intended to be comprehended within the meaning and range of equivalence of the following claims.

What is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

1. Strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, essentially consisting of a fabric having on at least one face thereof threads forming latently adhesive first surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under first predetermined conditions, and having on the other face discrete latently adhesive second surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under conditions which do not cause activation of said first adhesive surface portions so that a permanent adhesion between saidstrip material and said one-piece collar or the like may be obtained by activation of said first adhesive substance after said strip material has been preliminarily adhered to said collar in proper position by activation of said second adhesive substance;

2. Strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, essentially consisting of a fabric having on at least one face thereof threads forming latently adhesive first surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under first predetermined conditions, and having on the other face threads forming discrete latently adhesive second surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under conditions which do not cause activation of said first adhesive surface portions so that a permanent adhesion between said strip material and said one-piece collar or the like may be obtained by activation of said first adhesive substance after said strip material has been preliminarily adhered to said collar in proper position by activation of said second adhesive substance.

3. Strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, essentially consisting of a fabric comprising two longitudinally extending zones of unequal widths, one of said zones being wider and of heavier construction, the other of said zones being narrower and of lighter construction, said one zone having on at least one face thereof latently adhesive first surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under first predetermined conditions, and having on the other face discrete latently adhesive second surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under second pre- 6 V determined conditions different from said first predetermined conditions so as not to cause" activation of said latently adhesive first surface portions during activation of said latently adhesive second surface portions so that a permanent adhesion between said strip material and said one-piece collar or the like may be obtained by activation of said first adhesive substance after said strip material has been preliminarily adhered to said collar in proper position by activation of said second adhesive substance.

4. Strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, essentially consisting of a fabric having on at least one face thereof latently adhesive first surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under first predetermined conditions including the application of a solvent in which said first surface portions are at least partially soluble, and having on the other face discrete latently adhesive second surface portions which are insoluble insaid solvent and are adapted to become actively adhesive under conditions which do not cause activation of said first adhesive surface portions so that a permanent adhesion between said strip material and said one-piece collar or the like may be obtained by activation of said first adhesive substance after said strip material has been preliminarily adhered to said collar in proper position by activation of said second adhesive substance' 5. Strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, essentially consisting of a fabric having on at least one face thereof threads consisting of cellulose acetate and forming latently adhesive first surface'portions adapted to become actively adhesive under first predetermined conditions, and having on the other face threads consisting of polyethylene and forming discrete latently adhesive second surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under conditions which do not cause activation of said first adhesive surface portions so that a permanent adhesion between said strip material and said one-piece collar or the like may be obtained by activation of said first adhesive substance after said strip material has been preliminarily adhered to said collar in proper position by activation of said second adhesive substance.

6. Strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, essentially consisting of a fabric having on at least one face thereof threads consisting of cellulose acetate and forming latently adhesive first surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under first predetermined conditions, and having on the other face threads containing polyethylene and forming discrete latently adhesive second surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under conditions which do not cause activation of said first adhesive surface portions so that a permanent adhesion between said strip material and said one-piece collar or the like may be obtained by activation of said first adhesive substance after said strip material has been preliminarily adhered to said collar in proper position by activation of said second adhesive substance.

7. Strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, essentially consisting of a fabric having on at least one face thereof latently adhesive first surface portions consisting of cellulose acetate and adapted to become actively adhesive under predetermined conditions including the application of a solvent in which said cellulose acetate is at least partially soluble and in which polyethylene is insoluble, and having on the other face discrete latently adhesive second surface portions consisting of polyethylene and adapted to become actively adhesive at a predetermined temperature which does not cause adhesion of said cellulose acetate so that a permanent adhesion between said strip material and said one-piece collar or the like may be obtained by activation of said first adhesive substance after said strip material has been preliminarily adhered to said collar in proper position by activation of said second adhesive substance.

8. Strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, essentially consisting of a fabric having on at least one face thereof threads forming latently adhesive first surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under first predetermined conditions, and having on the other face threads consisting of monofilaments of polyethylene forming discrete latently adhesive second surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under conditions which do not cause activation of said first adhesive surface portions so that a permanent adhesion between said strip material and said one-piece collar or the like may be obtained by activation of said first adhesive substance after said strip material has been preliminarily adhered to said collar in proper position by activation of said second adhesive substance.

9. Strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, essentially consisting of a fabric having on at least one face thereof threads forming latently adhesive first surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under first predetermined conditions, and having on the other face threads consisting of multifilaments of viscose coated with polyethylene forming discrete latently adhesive second surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under conditions which do not cause activation of said first adhesive surface portions so that a permanent adhesion between said strip material and said one-piece collar or the like may be obtained by activation of said first adhesive substance after said strip material has been preliminarily adhered to said collar in proper position by activation of said second adhesive substance.

10. Strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, essentially consisting of a fabric hav ing on at least one face thereof threads forming latently adhesive first surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under first predetermined conditions, and having on the other face threads consisting of multifilaments of nylon coated with a methyl-methoxylated polyamide forming discrete latently adhesive second surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive by the application of diluted alcohol and heat at a temperature which does not cause activation of said first adhesive surface portions.

11. Strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, essentially consisting of a fabric having on at least one face thereof threads forming latently adhesive first surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive under first predetermined conditions, and having on the other face threads consisting of cotton yarn coated with a copolymer of vinyl chloride and vinyl acetate mixed with a polymer of vinyl acetate so as to form a mixture having a softening point of about C. forming discrete latently adhesive second surface portions adapted to become actively adhesive at a predetermined temperature which does not cause activation of said first adhesive surface portions.

12. Strip material for use in determining the fold line of one-piece collars, comprising, in combination, a woven strip of textile material having two faces and containing a first latently adhesive substance which is exposed at least at one face of said strip material and a second latently adhesive substance which is exposed at the other face of said strip material, said first and second latently adhesive substances forming at least portions of threads included in said woven strip of textile material, said second adhesive substance forming a portion of said other face which is substantially smaller than the portion of said one face which is formed by said first adhesive substance, said second adhesive substance being adapted to become actively adhesive by the application of heat at a temperature which does not cause activation of said first adhesive substance, whereby said strip material may be preliminarily adhered with said other face thereof to a one-piece collar and the like by activation of said second adhesive substance while said first adhesive substance remains in non-adhesive condition, so that the permanent adhesion between said strip material and said one-piece collar and the like may be obtained by activation of said first adhesive substance after said strip material has been preliminarily adhered to said collar in proper position by activation of said second adhesive substance.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Great Britain Feb. 26, 

